Week 202: Chocolate textures tartlet II

While I don’t think there was anything wrong with last week’s chocolate tarts, somehow, it just didn’t hit the spot. So I decided to give it another try, this time with my square tart rings (aren’t rings round??).

And I have to say, I do like this rendition a lot more. Firstly, I absolutely loved how the tart shells turn out. Just look at those sharp edges! And I finally got to eat the chocolate pastry cream I have been craving for these past weeks. So, this one is definitely a keeper.

For the chocolate sauce

26g bittersweet chocolate

50g water

25g heavy cream

14g caster sugar

1) Place all the ingredients in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to the boil over medium heat, stirring constantly.

2) Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until he sauce thickens very slightly and costs the back of the spoon. (Alternatively, you can use the draw-a-line test: Dip the spoon into the sauce and draw your finger down the back of the spoon – if the sauce doesn’t run into the track created by your finger, it’s done.)

3) Pour into mini dome moulds and allow to set in the freezer. This makes enough for 6 portions of 15g.

For the chocolate mousse

2g silver gelatin sheets

44g whole milk

44g heavy cream

18g egg yolks

10g sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract

105g dark chocolate couverture

55g milk chocolate couverture

160g heavy cream (whipped to soft peaks)

1) Soak gelatin in ice water until softened; squeeze out excess water and set aside.

2) In a medium sized pot, boil the milk and 44g heavy cream.

3) Whisk egg yolks and sugar in a small bowl to combine. Temper with hot milk mixture and pour back into the pot. Cook mixture to 82°C (185°F).

4) Stir in gelatin to dissolve.

5) Place chocolate couverture in a medium size bowl. Strain hot mixture over couvertures. Whisk to emulsify.

6) When mixture is cool 30°C (86°F) fold in whipped cream.

7) Pour 60g of the chocolate mousse into a square sphere mould cavity. Remove a frozen chocolate sauce mini dome and place it into the mousse. Pour another 12g of mousse and smooth over.

8) This makes enough for 5 portions with 57g remaining.

9) Allow to set in the freezer.

For the chocolate pastry cream

250g whole milk

2 large egg yolks

37g sugar

12g cornstarch, sifted

100g bittersweet chocolate, preferably Valrhona Guanaja, melted

20g unsalted butter, at room temperature

95g x 4 portions; little bit remaining

1) Fill a large bowl with ice cubes and water. Set aside a smaller bowl that can hold the finished cream and be placed in this ice bath. Set aside a fine-meshed strainer too.

2) In a small saucepan, bring the milk to the boil. Meanwhile, whisk the yolks, sugar, and cornstarch together in heavy-bottomed medium saucepan. Whisking all the while, very slowly drizzle a quarter of the hot milk into the yolks. Still whisking, pour the rest of the liquid in a steady stream into the tempered yolks.

3) Strain the mixture into the saucepan, place the pan over medium heat, and, whisking vigorously and without stop, bring the mixture to the boil. Keep the mixture at the boil, whisking energetically for 1 to 2 minutes. Still over heat, stir in the chocolate, then remove the pan from the heat and scrape the pastry cream into the small bowl.

4) Set the bowl into the ice-water bath and, stirring frequently so that the mixture remains smooth, cool the pastry cream to 60°C, as measured on an instant-read thermometer.

5) Remove the cream from the ice-water bath and stir in the butter in three or four additions. Return the cream to the ice-water bath and keep it there, stirring occasionally, until it is completely cool. Make this when ready to use.

For the whipped ganache

60g + 160g heavy cream

7g invert sugar

7g glucose

50g milk chocolate couverture

35g dark chocolate couverture

1) Melt chocolate to 45C over a water bath.

2) Bring 60g of heavy cream, invert sugar, and glucose to 50C.

3) Emulsify warm cream mixture with melted chocolate using a hand blender.

4) Add the remaining cold cream and continue blending until homogenous.

5) Cover with cling wrap and allow to chill in refrigerator for 12 hours.

6) Before using, whisk on high speed until stiff peaks form. This makes just enough to pipe on 4 tarts.

To assemble

4 x baked 8cm x 8cm square pâte sucrée chocolat tart shell

Red velvet spray

1) Fill each baked tart shells with the chocolate pastry cream. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes until softly set.

2) Remove the frozen mousse from the mould and spray with red velvet spray.

3) Place each frozen mousse on top of the chocolate pastry cream.

4) Fit a medium petal tip into a pastry bag and fill with the whipped ganache. Pipe the whipped ganache around the frozen mousse for each tart.

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